Honda Muffler Parts - General Questions

The difficult design of exhaust system Honda is presented by several components. Perhaps, it is possible to name the basic part muffler Honda. In the USA market this detail is represented by known firms, whose production is delivered on the conveyor and five years' term of uninterrupted operation is guaranteed. In three-componental system of exhaust Honda the important place occupies flute Honda which attaches the muffler directly to a motor compartment. The important qualities гофры is its raised elasticity and ability to transfer the big temperature loadings. Flute Honda in the form of a three-layer texture it is capable to serve to your car not less than two years. Because of some reasons exhaust system components can break the functioning and demand repair of the muffler, replacement flute Honda. As the system of an exhaust of the given mark of the car includes catalysts Honda which trouble-free work directly depends on the natural reasons and use of poor-quality gasoline and oil. Thus there is an infringement and failure in work not only an exhaust system, but also all engine completely.

Honda muffler parts

Honda muffler parts

Honda muffler parts

Honda muffler parts

Honda muffler parts

Honda muffler parts

At a wish, in the course of repair of the muffler instead of a standard exhaust system it is possible to establish the direct-flow muffler that will give to the car a sports view and will provide power inflow.

Recommendations about liquids for Honda

Questions on oil replacement in the VARIATOR

How often to change oil in the VARIATOR?
Time in two years or through 40 thousand km.

What oil to pour into the VARIATOR?
In the European models special oil for a variator from HONDA CVT flows, in Japanese (right-hand drive) it is possible to pour HONDA ATF Premium. Besides, on a probe in a variator oil which in it flows should be registered.

Questions on oil replacement in the Mechanical Gear box

How often to change oil in the Mechanical Gear box?
In normal conditions of times in two years or through 40 thousand km.,
At rigid operation of times in a year or through 25 thousand km.

What oil to pour into the Mechanical Gear box?
In all Hondas to 94г in the Gear box engine oil with viscosity 10w40 known firms flows, with 94г special oil MTF - "for manual gear boxes" from Honda flows. Considering a climate and specificity of Honda whenever possible it is desirable to replace engine oil in a check point on МТF and by cars TO 94г. Well, and for the lack of МТF - to pour engine oil, but only into cars TO 94г in, later - ONLY МТF.

How often to change the Cooling fluid (antifreeze)?
Time in two years or through 40 thousand in km. If it is standard "dark blue" or "green" antifreeze
And time in 100 thousand or 5 years "red" TEXACO.
There is a weight for a long time the proved firms, not one year selling on the market (and in the world) the products.
It: MOBIL, CASTROL, ELF, TEXACO, BP, ESSO, LIQUI MOLY, MOTUL, RAVENOL, SELENIA, SHELL, TOTAL, etc.
Buying their products you will not lose, and will not be mistaken. I will notice, that TEXACO does "red antifreeze", it does not mix up with "green" or "dark blue" and serves twice longer. Other firms exhaust usually "dark blue" or "green" antifreezes, not the worst quality, and besides interchangeable / mixed among themselves.
I do not recommend to use MANNOL.

Questions on oil replacement in the Automatic Gear box

What interval oil in the Automatic Gear box varies?
Term of replacement of oil depends on type to the Automatic Gear box, and, usually, under normal conditions operation is recommended to change it through 70 thousand kilometres of run of the car (or in 2 years), and through 25 thousand kilometres (or in 1 year) if service conditions are distinct from normal (a hot climate, a cold climate, operation in the conditions of a megacity, constant operation of the car with full loading, etc.). To adhere to replacement target dates follows, if while in service there is no considerable change of quality of oil or you did not get to movement close conditions (have got stuck, long towed other car, etc.). In case of dimness of oil and or acquisitions of a burnt smell it is necessary to replace by it, not waiting planned term of replacement.

How many it is necessary to fill in oils in the Automatic Gear box?
Depending on type, the Automatic Gear box can contain from 4,2 litres (DAIHATSU TERIOS) to 15,5 litres ATF (FORD EXPEDITION). It is necessary to mean, that at replacement merges far do not weigh oil volume. The oil part remains in control system ports, and, besides, is far not all transformers have plugs for plum from them oils. Therefore at an oil drain its part remains in the Automatic Gear box, but it is considered admissible. If you wish to replace completely oil it is necessary two or triple replacement of oil.

What oil to pour in the Automatic Gear box?
dextron 2 (mineral) or dextron 3 (synthetic) from MOBIL, CASTROL, ELF, TEXACO, BP, ESSO, LIQUI MOLY, MOTUL, RAVENOL, SELENIA, SHELL, TOTAL, etc.
It is not recommended to pour MANNOL.
How to replace oil in the Automatic Gear box?
Merge through a drain plug old oil (its part merges ALWAYS only - full single change is impossible) and fill in new through a jellied bore,
Then check up level (see previous article).
Attention: on some cars in the Automatic Gear box there is an oil filter, it is necessary for changing at each replacement of oil.

How to check up an oil level in the Automatic Gear box?
For cars Honda and Acura the oil level is checked at the blanked off engine after achievement of temperature of oil of a working temperature. On a probe for oil measurement in the Automatic Gear box, as a rule, there are some labels. Two top, and sometimes and unique, correspond to an oil normal level, to warm up to a working temperature (90°С). Often this site of a probe is noted by a notch and-or inscription HOT. That oil in the Automatic Gear box has got warm to a working temperature it is necessary to pass kilometres 15-20. After oil warming up in the Automatic Gear box establish the car on an equal, horizontal platform. Pull out a probe from the Automatic Gear box, and dry wipe it. Then insert a probe back into a tube for a probe against the stop and again take. The lowermost, dry place on a probe also will correspond to oil level in the Automatic Gear box. Sometimes on a probe is also the bottom labels corresponding to level of the cold. This label is intended for approximate definition of quantity of the filled in oil in case of its replacement.

What to pour into the steering booster?
To pour only Honda PSF (power steering fluid). IN NO EVENT it is impossible to pour ATF as sometimes recommend some services.
Hydraulic booster Honda PSF liquid happens several kinds, but Hondas (Rovers) love only original liquid Honda PSF. Priming (having added) other liquid in the Hydraulic booster is fraught with consequences if to go not for long, epiploons of the helmsman m will begin to flow, the epiploon costs cents, and work on replacement uneasy (at Accord CE and Civic MA in general it is impossible that the steer does not understand). If to go longer, up to failure of pump Gidro of the Booster. But the liquid happens different: the first - liquids "as the spare part" are liquids in packings of 1 and 4 litres, manufactures Japan, the price nearby 20$, other liquid - manufactures USA in packing 0,33л, the price nearby 2,7$ for bank, but for Europe it is ordered as "accessories" under the catalogue by number 082069002. So address to official dealers Honda, demand a liquid as accessories, after all it is twice cheaper (though they about it can and not know).

And what about capacity for example at Civic? Civic'и happen different, for example Сivic "96 (EJ9, EK1, EK3, EK4...) system Capacity - 0,85л., tank capacity - 0,4л., total: 1,25л.
Whether Еcть experience of commixing native and American? Only Genium Honda PSF, and the manufacturer - any, American PSF makes American Honda Motor Co., and the liquid has catalogue number, as any original spare part Honda. As far as I know, Honda the liquid structure keeps a secret and the licence for manufacture of liquid PSF gave nobody. And for liquid Johnsen's power steering fluid for Honda cars I tell I can nothing, besides, that it is a liquid STEREOTYPED. At the best, the structure of this liquid is approximately similar to structure original Hona PSF, in the worst this liquid is made on Small Arnautsky. In any case, I think to risk it is not necessary, and if a fluid level in a car tank even below the minimum mark terrible in it anything is not present, after all the fence a liquid to be made from the bottom branch pipe, and the top branch pipe is return. And that there would be no doubts what to pour, it is necessary to glance in the catalogue of applicability of oils for Honda any large firm, for example Mobil in which it will be written about the following: 'the Servocontrol: the Special (original) liquid for a servocontrol (Honda V)'

Crankcase protection on Honda - whether is necessary it?

Here words of the most authoritative Honda expert:

All that will be told concerns all models of Honda irrespective of year of manufacture further.
Radiator air intakes are located low, at car movement under the bottom the zone with the raised pressure is formed. Protection installation will break ventilation of a motor compartment and will lead to an engine OVERHEAT. It not simply my personal opinion it is supported by the official answer of service department of Honda to this important enough for many a question. To all I advise to choose speed corresponding to road conditions, and those who would like to go on stubs in wood should think of purchase of one more, more suitable to these purposes of the car.

P.S. It is not necessary to listen to those who will confirm that it goes with protection for a long time already. You recollect my words when the motor of your car will overheat.

P.S.S. At all models it is established powerful front cross-section, and also the longitudinal beam which perfectly protects the engine from damages.

Why pads and how with it to struggle non-uniformly wear out?

Front brakes on the majority of cars of mark Honda (and not only) have a design with one brake cylinder in a caliper. At such design that by means of one cylinder to press two pads to a brake plate, pads should is in a metal buckle. I.e. the brake cylinder presses the bucket on one of pads, and a rear on a buckle which being displaced presses the second pad to a disk. It is clear, that this buckle should not be fixed rigidly, and should have possibility of free conveyance. (So-called " The floating buckle ") For this purpose, a buckle fastens to a swivel member through directing on which it should move. Guiding are greased by special lubricant and are protected duster from moisture and dirt hit. From time, deterioration and wrong repair leakproofness duster can be broken, the dirt and water gets to the directing, and they start"to sour". Even when this process only begins, work of brakes is already broken, and if he has had time to come far enough to restore working capacity of this knot sometimes happens absolutely uneasy. From the point of view of the driver, this failure can be shown differently. Brakes start to work at more pressing a pedal, there can be extraneous sounds, pads will non-uniformly wear out. And non-uniformity can be different character - deterioration of one pad much more, than another at"souring"of both directing, and deterioration of pads under a corner, at "souring"of one of them.
After you turn off two bolts of fastening directing, you can remove a buckle with a brake cylinder, covering brake blocks. Each guiding represents the barrel in which the bolt is twisted and on which ends are put on dusters. This barrel should move freely (fingers) along the shaft concerning a buckle. If it does not occur, it is necessary for backing out improvised means, not having damaged. Do not try to remove duster, not having taken out a guide bush - it has a special design, being simultaneously and an epiploon and to remove it not having taken out a guide bush it is impossible. Besides, dusters it is made of rubber which is not oilprotection, therefore it cannot be washed out gasoline or other solvents. Because of it to grease this knot it is possible ONLY lubricant specially intended for it. That this knot has started to work normally and has got though any reliability, it is desirable to replace dustera. It is not so expensive. After clearing of details, lubricant and assemblies guiding should move freely hands, and the buckle with directing can be established into place.
Wrong replacement of brake blocks can be a partial cause of defect of this knot. At correct replacement of brake blocks, it is necessary to remove this buckle, at the same time checking the directing. It allows to define in time necessity of their dismantling and lubricant. Some, at replacement of pads remove a caliper entirely, leaving guiding to "sour" further. And it is unequivocal, absolutely imperceptible damage dusters pads directing at replacement can be the "souring" reason even.
It is necessary to apply to lubricant only special high-temperature (not less than 200 C) lubricant since brakes strongly heat up, it usually happens in the repair complete set of calipers or is on sale separately.

Review Honda CR-V

For the first time about Honda CR-V the consumer has heard in 1995 when in the world active advancement of parquet crossovers by various automobile companies has begun. Manufacturers Honda CR-V were guided exclusively by the American market, but on incident of several years have successfully expanded the activity and on the European roads.
The solid ground clearance of the new car has allowed to bring interesting constructive innovations. Parquet crossover Honda CR-V has allowed to hide all necessary elements of a gear box under a body that has considerably expanded free space for the driver. First generation Honda CR-V was equipped with one type of the 2-litre engine though in 1998 certain improvements and the car have been made became more powerful on 20 h.p. (with 130 to 150). The old motor had identification mark В20В whereas the updated version was positioned as В20Z.
Second generation Honda CR-V has appeared in 2002 and had weight of differences from predecessors. Huge attention give to a passenger compartment which in the class has great volume - 527л. New Honda CR-V perfectly consults in the conditions of impassability thanks to technology REAL TIME 4WD. When it is necessary, the system independently balances capacity of rotation of wheels of a lobby or a rear axle. Front suspension Honda CR-V - MacPherson strut, rear - independent with the jet lever. Engine Honda CR-V of the second generation has been improved by technology i-VTEC which watches effective work of valves. At the of 2,4 litres the engine has not the big capacity - all 160л.с., but the schedule of the maximum twisting moment is stable at any turns. Honda CR-V the second generation it was equipped only with this engine, without any alternatives.
Second generation Honda CR-V can be equipped by two kinds of gear boxes - five-step mechanical and four-stage automatic. The box the automatic machine is equipped by technology Grade Logic which urged to trace a real road situation, improving in such mode the switching moment. Thanking Grade Logic on Honda CR-V there was a soft course, irrespective of a situation on road. In addition to ABS the car is equipped EBD.
Second generation Honda CR-V was accessible in two complete sets - "Performa" and "Fullmark". Full "forcemeat" is accessible in complete set Fullmark which can please the owner with a leather boot for a spare wheel, the unique external furnish, the lattice chromeplated a radiator and much-many other things.
Third generation Honda CR-V has appeared on the review public in 2006. The basic changes of appearance have concerned dynamics and aggression. Until recently on territory of Russia it was delivered Honda CR-V with the only thing 2 litre type of the engine. In 2008 the domestic consumer could estimate a 2,4-litre cursor with 166 horsepowers. The suspender in the third generation remained invariable, in front - MacPherson strut, behind - difficult multilever. Today Honda CR-V the third generation it is offered in three complete sets - Comfort, Elegance, Executive. First two variants are realised with the two-litre 150-strong engine whereas elite version Executive is equipped by the 2,4-litre motor and has 166 forces.
In the class for Honda CR-V it is not a lot of third generation of competitors, but all of them demand respect - Mitsubishi Outlander and Outlander XL, Ford Kuga and Nissan X-Trail. Whether can sustain third generation Honda CR-V such competition, the consumer will judge.

Engine HONDA CIVIC Removal

1. Open a cowl how much it probably.
2. Unhook at first a negative side of the accumulator battery, then positive.
3. Remove a mantle of racks (engines V16A2, В16А4, В16А5, В16А6).
4. Unhook cables for connection from the block of safety locks and the relay.
5. Remove the accumulator battery and a bracket of fastening of the accumulator battery.
6. Remove an inlet air vent and the air filter case.
Engines D14A3, D14A4, D15Z4, D15Z5, D16Y7:
1. Remove the resonator and an inlet air vent.
2. Unhook a socket of a temperature detector of air on an admission, then remove the air filter case.
Except engines D14A3, D14A4, D15Z4, D15Z5, D16Y7:
1. Unhook a socket of a temperature detector of air on an admission, then remove an inlet air vent and the air filter case.
1 - the air filter case; 2 - an inlet air vent; 3 socket of a temperature detector of air on an admission.
7. Unhook a socket of a wiring harness of the engine.
1 - a socket of a wiring harness of the engine
8. Dump pressure of fuel, to slacken a technological bolt on a fuel filter approximately one turn.
Do not smoke at work on a fuel system. Hold an open flame far from work area. Merge fuel in suitable capacity.
9. Remove a hose of system of removal of steams of fuel from the inlet pipe duct and a fuel hose.
Engines D14A3, D14A4, D15Z4, D15Z5, D16Y7:
1 - a hose of system of removal of steams of fuel from the inlet pipe duct; 2 - a bolt;
3 - a technological bolt; 4 - hollow disks; 5 - a hollow disk; 6 - a fuel hose.
Except engines D14A3, D14A4, D15Z4, DD15Z5, D16Y7:
1 - a technological bolt; 2 - a bolt; 3-hollow disks; 4 - a hollow disk; 5 - a fuel hose;
6-hose of system of removal of steams of fuel from the inlet pipe duct.
10. Remove a vacuum hose of the vacuum servo of brakes, a hose of return of fuel and a vacuum hose.
Engines D14A3, D14A4, D15Z4, D15Z5, D16Y7:
1 - a vacuum hose; 2 - a vacuum hose of the vacuum servo of brakes; 3 - a hose of return of fuel.
Except engines D14A3, D14A4, D15Z4, D15Z5, D16Y7:
1 - a vacuum hose; 2 - a hose of return of fuel; a 3-vacuum hose of the vacuum servo of brakes.
11. Unhook sockets ESM/RSM.
12. Unhook the basic socket of a wiring harness.
13. Remove isolating boot and wiring harness clamps, then remove sockets ESM/RSM.
1 - an isolating boot.
14. Remove a belt of a drive gear of the pump of the hydraulic booster of a steering and the pump.
ATTENTION: do not unhook hoses from the hydraulic booster pump.
Engines V16A2. В16А4, В16А5. В16А6:
1. Remove an adjusting bolt and fastening bolts, then remove a belt of a drive gear of the pump of the hydraulic booster and the pump. Engines V16A2, В16А4, В16А5, В16А6:
1 - an adjusting bolt; 2 - fastening bolts.
Except engines V16A2, В16А4, В16А5, В16А6:
1. Remove a bolt of fastening and fixing bolt, then remove a belt of a drive gear of the pump of the hydraulic booster and the pump.
Except engines V16A2. В16А4. В16А5, В16А6:
1 - a fastening bolt;
2 - a belt of a drive gear of the pump of the hydraulic booster;
3 - a fixing bolt.
15. Remove a belt of a drive gear of the compressor of the air conditioner. Engines V16A2. В16А4. В16А5. В16А6:
1. To slacken a bolt of a bracket of a roller and an adjusting bolt, then remove a belt at water of the compressor of the air conditioner. Engines V16A2. В16А4. В16А5, В16А6:
1 - an adjusting bolt;
2 - a bolt of a bracket of a roller;
3 - a belt of a drive gear of the compressor of the air conditioner.
Except engines V16A2, В16А4, В16А5, В16А6:
1. To slacken the central nut of a roller and an adjusting bolt, then remove a belt of a drive gear of the compressor of the air conditioner. Except engines V16A2. В16А4. В16А5, В16А6:
1 - an adjusting bolt;
2 - the central nut of a roller;
3 - a belt of a drive gear of the compressor of the air conditioner.
16. Remove a cable of a drive gear of a throttle valve, to slacken a lock nut, then take the end of a cable from sector.
ATTENTION: Do not bend a cable at removal of it. Always replace the damaged cable new. Adjust a cable of a drive gear of a throttle valve at assembly. Engines D14A3, D14A4, D15Z4, D15Z5, D16Y7:
1 - a lock nut;
2 - an adjusting nut;
3 - a cable of a drive gear of a throttle valve.
Except engines D14A3, D14A4, D15Z4, D15Z5, D16Y7:
1 - a cable of a drive gear of a throttle valve;
2 - a lock nut;
3 - an adjusting nut.
17. Remove a clutch working cylinder in gathering with a tube and a hose (a mechanical check point).
ATTENTION: Do not unhook a tube. Do not press a clutch pedal, at a remote working cylinder. Do not bend a tube.
1 - a working cylinder
18. Remove an earth wire of a gear box and a hose loose strap.
1 - a hose loose strap; 2 - a gear box earth wire.
19. Remove a steering cable (CVT/HONDA MULTI MATIC).
1 - a splint; 2 - a hollow disk; 3 - a lock nut; 4 - a plastic hollow disk; 5-cable of steering.
20. Unhook a socket of the gauge of change of effort on a steering wheel depending on speed of movement, and remove a wiring harness clamp.
1 - a socket of the gauge of change of effort on a steering wheel depending on speed of movement.
21. Remove a radiator cover. At removal of a cover of a radiator wait before drop of temperature of a cooling fluid to avoid a burn.
22. To hoist the hoist on full height.
23. Remove front wheels and crankcase protection.
1 - crankcase protection.
24. Merge a cooling fluid.
25. Merge a transmission oil or a liquid. Repeatedly establish a drain plug, using a new hollow disk.
26. Merge engine oil. Repeatedly establish a drain bolt, using a new hollow disk.
27. Remove a shift rod and a longitudinal rod (a mechanical check point).
1 - a shift rod; 2 - a clamper; 3 - a rod; 4 - a spring pin of 8 mm.
28. Remove a steering cable (Models from an automatic check point).
ATTENTION: Do not bend a cable. Always replace the damaged cable new. Adjust a cable at assembly.
1 - a steering cable; 2 - a cover of a cable of steering; 3-lock washer.
29. Remove the air conditioner compressor.
ATTENTION: do not unhook hoses of the compressor of the air conditioner.
1 - the air conditioner Compressor
30. (Engines V16A2, В16А4, В16А5) Unhook a socket of the warmed up oxygen gauge.
31. Remove an exhaust pipe And.
Except engine D15Z5, D15Z6, D15Y5 (models КЕ, KG), D16Y7
1 - a socket of the warmed up oxygen gauge;
2-layer pads; 3 - a layer pad; 4 - a nut;
5 exhaust pipe And; 6 - a nut.
32. Remove the right plug of the absorber.
33. Unhook spherical hinges of a lower arm of a suspender.
34. Remove power shafts.
35. Lower the hoist.
36. Remove the top and bottom radiator hoses, and also a heater hose.
1 - the top radiator hose; 2 - a heater hose;
3-hose of a heater; 4 - the bottom radiator hose.
37. Remove hoses of a cooler of a working liquid of an automatic gear box, then blank off hoses a tube (models from an automatic check point. CVT/HONDA MULTI MATIC).
1 - hoses of a cooler of a working liquid of an automatic gear box
38. Connect winch fastening to hooks of lifting of the engine.
Engines D15Z5, D15Z6, D16Y5 (models КЕ, KG), D16Y7:
1 - layer pads; 2 - a nut;
3 - an exhaust pipe And; 4 - a nut.
39. Remove the left and right front bearing parts of fastening.
1-left front bearing part; 2 - a nut.
1 - the right front bearing part; 2 - a bolt.
40. Remove a rear bearing part.
1 - a bolt; 2 - a rear bearing part; 3 - bolts.
41. Remove the top bracket.
1 - the top bracket.
42. Remove a bracket of fastening of a gear box, then remove a gear box bearing part.
1 - a gear box bearing part; 2 - a bracket of fastening of a gear box.
43. Check up, that before removal of the engine you have unhooked all hoses and sockets which can prevent removal.
44. Slowly hoist the engine approximately 150 mm. Check up once again. That all hoses and wires have been unhooked from the engine/gear box.
45. Completely hoist the engine, and remove it from the car.

How to Turn off a Pulley Bolt of a Kneeshaft?

Reliable motors are done by Honda, only puts them not as everything, belts to the right, and on the contrary. Accordingly they also turn in the opposite direction - counter-clockwise. Insignificant, at first sight, distinction sets thinking, when it is necessary to turn off a pulley bolt of kneeshaft. To do it it is necessary at least each 100 thousand in km - for replacement of belt GRM, but there are also off-schedule works: epiploon replacement, for example. The bolt huge for a head on 17 moment 185 Н-м is tightened and to turn off it, the effort is required much more.
To shift a bolt, scrolling the engine a starter, it will not turn out: a rotation direction not that.
The engaged drive and the pedal of a brake pressed in a floor too do not help - transmission springs, but the bolt does not surrender. On old cars in a clutch crankcase there is a window opposite to a flywheel wreath, and some try to stop its mount or sharply sharpened breakage. Such duel of the person with car at times comes to an end with the spilt blood or an unwrapped crankcase, and happens, both that, and another. In a pulley it is provided hexahedron cut under a firm key. Only here hexahedron on 51 with a bore under a head on 17 on sale not to find, and to order for single works - expensively. Meanwhile preparation for a special key is on sale in any market: a lock nut
Radiators on 54, an inner diameter (on a thread) - 39 mm, width - 10 mm. We recut its sides on 1,5 mm, we weld the strong flat handle in length of 180-220 mm - the tool is ready. On some pulleys corners between cut sides are rounded, therefore and on a nut it is possible to cut reciprocal parts a few. We turn on a bolt a head on 17 with the extension piece and the powerful handle.
It is possible to weld the ground preparation on a VAZ key for a bent shaft nut - the universal wrench VAZ-Honda will turn out. The handle is convenient for establishing on a drive axis of a front wheel.
That the key has not come off, we establish the extension piece on a reliable support. At times even a wheel to remove not necessarily, however if tyres of more diameter, than regular are established, a wheel it is necessary to remove or use nevertheless a key with propshaft.

Types of Honda Engines

The first letter in the name of Honda engines specifies in an engine accessory to a certain series. Also as well as at other Japanese engines, at HONDA engines of one series are structurally similar, but can differ on speeding up degree, a working volume and other characteristics.
Examples: F20B, F18B, D17A, J35A.

Following two letter show an engine working volume, having divided the number consisting of these figures, on 10 we will receive a working volume in litres.
Examples: D17A (volume of the engine of 1,7 l.), D15B (volume of the engine of 1,5 l.), E07Z (engine volume - 0,66 l.).

Last letter (there are letters A, B, With, Z) designates engine version in series, engines with the letter And are the first versions, then there are engines with In, last version becomes C, letter Z is applied only to engine E07Z.
Examples: L13A, F22B, B18C.

Old engines HONDA have the name from two letters from which to learn any information it is impossible. An example: ZC (it was established on model Integra up to 2001, was both in carburettor, and in an injector variants).